Glossary

Arabic numerals:

The arabic numerals are the ten digits that make of the modern numbering system. (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9)

Automatic:

An automatic watch winds itself by the movements of the wearer’s arm. The rotor turns and transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism which powers the watch. The automatic watch system was invented by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century.

Baguette:

A diamond cut into a narrow rectangular shape. Tapered baguettes feature one narrow end and one broader end.

Bail:

A gold hoop like element that is used to attach a pendant to a chain.

Band (Watch):

The band, strap, or bracelet that holds your watch to your wrist. Either simply cinch the band to fit the buckle hole that is most comfortable for your wrist or to size.

Band:

A ring which is exchanged during the wedding ceremony. Traditionally it was made of gold with the same width all the way around. Modern bands often include diamonds. A band can also refer to the style of ring and can be worn as a fashion ring.

Bangle:

A rigid bracelet designed to slip over the hand. However, some bangle designs do feature clasps.

Bezel Setting:

A diamond setting style where a gold rim that surrounds the diamond to secure it in place. The bezel setting style is secure, and does not block light from entering the diamond.

Box Chain:

A chain style featuring broad, square links. Another name for this chain is a Venetian chain.

Brightness:

The reflections of white light seen when a diamond is viewed from the top.

Brilliance:

Light reflected up through the surface of a diamond. Brilliance is maximized by cutting a diamond to the correct proportions.

Brilliant Cut:

A specific diamond cut that has exactly 58 facets. A brilliant cut can have several shapes: round, oval, radiant (square), as well as pear-shaped or heart-shaped.

Cable Chain:

A chain style featuring uniform, round links. Can also have a spring ring or lobster claw clasp.

Carat (ct.):

A unit of diamond weight, equivalent to 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams.

Carat Total Weight (ct. tw.):

The combined carat weight of all diamonds in a piece of jewelry. For example, an invisible set diamond cluster with 7 diamonds ranging from 0.12 ct. to 0.28 ct. has a total carat weight of 1 ct.

Case:

The container, (usually round or rectangular) that protects the watch-movement from dust, dirt, water and shocks. The case also makes the watch attractive and is subject to fashion.

Center Stone:

The central, dominant diamond in a piece of jewelry set with multiple stones.

Chain:

A general term used to describe any series of connected gold links or loops. Typically used for bracelets, pendants, necklaces, and watch bands.

Channel Setting:

A setting style where ridges in the gold create a channel that holds diamonds securely in place

Chronograph:

Chronograph refers to a watch with two or more independent time systems. One system indicates the time of day and the other measures brief intervals of time. The counters that measure in seconds, minutes and hours can be started and stopped as desired.

Clarity:

The clarity scale is used to describe how few inclusions a diamond has. The clarity scale ranges from flawless (FL), meaning a diamond has no internal or external flaws, to severely included (I3), meaning there are many flaws clearly visible to the naked eye.

Clasp:

The general term for any type latching mechanism that connects two ends of a piece of jewelry securely together.

Crown (Watch):

A knob that is usually found on the middle right side of a watch, used to set the time and date. Some watch knobs also allow you to control other special watch functions.

Crystal:

Thin plate of glass or synthetic material to protect watch dials.

Culet:

The point at the bottom of the pavilion of a diamond. The preferred culet grades for a round diamond range from none to small because med to large cutlets affect the diamond’s light performance.

Deployment (Butterfly) clasp:

The Deployment Clasp features two portions that fold over symmetrically and lock like a butterfly. This clasp virtually invisible and is not a distraction from the watch itself. The clasp opens by pulling the joined ends of the bracelet away from the wrist.

Dial:

The dial is the "face" or plate of metal showing the various markings and/or numbers to indicate hours, minutes and seconds. Dials vary in shape, style, decoration and material.

Diamond:

Diamonds are formed naturally when carbon is exposed to intense heat and pressure. Diamond is the hardest naturally-occurring substance on Earth, and is most resistant to scratching.

Diameter:

The width of a loose diamond, earring, pendant, or any round part of a piece of jewelry as measured across the widest part.

Drop Earrings:

An earring that hangs below the ear lobe.

Drop Necklace:

A necklace that features gold or diamonds dangling from a chain.

Facet:

The flat polished surfaces on a diamond. Accurate facets are a primary factor in the amount of sparkle and fire a diamond displays.

Fold-over clasp:

A fold-over clasp features a portion of the chain bracelet that folds over itself and locks by a pressure tab. Often times, fold-over clasp watches feature a safety clasp that features a flap that folds over the clasp to securely lock the fold-over clasp.

Girdle:

The intersection of the crown and pavilion which defines the perimeter of the diamond.

Gold:

Gold has been used to create jewelry for centuries and is valued for its beauty, strength and malleability. Gold will never tarnish, rust, or corrode. While naturally yellow, various alloys are commonly added to gold to create white gold and rose gold. Gold is commonly measured by karat for jewelry:

• 24 karat = 100% gold Too soft for jewelry
• 22 karat = 91.7% gold Very soft, rarely used for jewelry
• 18 karat = 75.0% gold Recommended for jewelry
• 14 karat = 58.3% gold Recommended for jewelry
• 10 karat = 41.7% gold The legal minimum karatage considered real gold in the US

Head:

The gold basket that hold the center stone or solitaire in place.

Inclusion:

A trace mineral, fracture, or other imperfection that contributes to the unique fingerprint of a diamond. All but the rarest diamonds contain inclusions, which are created during the diamonds’ formation in the earth.

Karat:

Measurement of the purity of gold. Pure gold is too soft to withstand the stresses of every-day wear, so it is alloyed with a mixture of metals like silver, copper, nickel, and zinc to give it strength and durability. Products made from gold are marked to show how much actual gold is contained in the product:

• 24 karat = 100% gold
• 22 karat = 91.7% gold
• 18 karat = 75.0% gold
• 14 karat = 58.3% gold
• 10 karat = 41.7% gold

Lobster Claw Clasp:

Named for its appearance, the lobster claw clasp uses the pressure of a tiny spring to keep its claw closed.

Lug:

In wristwatches, it is the thin metal rod fixed between the case and the strap or bracelet.

Markers:

On the dial of a watch, markers are used to indicate the 12 hour increments. A marker can be a number, a line, a dot or a gemstone. Sometimes there are no markers or only markers at certain hours.

Movement:

Refers to the assembly of mechanisms of a watch, the winding and setting of the mechanism.

Natural Diamond:

Diamonds which occur naturally as part of a geological formation, as opposed to being created in a laboratory.

Pavé Setting:

From the French word for pavement, these stones are set low and very close, so that the surface appears to be paved with diamonds.

Prong Setting:

When a diamond is set with prongs, each prong is bent to securely hold the diamond by the crown. Other settings include bezel, channel, and pavé.

Quartz Movement:

A watch powered by an oscillating quartz crystal that is powered from a small battery. The quartz crystal oscillates 32,768 times per second. The oscillating is then divided into precise increments of 1 second or less. Both digital and analog watches utilize quartz movement.

Retrograde Watch Dial:

A retrograde watch dial does not display the time in a circular fashion, but rather in a linear fashion. Instead of the hands going in a circlular fashion, they move in an arch.

Rhodium:

A metal alloy commonly applied as an incredibly hard, protective coating to white gold. This coating offers the advantages of making these white metals even whiter.

Ring setting:

Collective term for the shank and the head of a ring which contains no center stone.

Ring size:

A measurement, generally between 5 to 10 for women and 10 to 13 for men, determined by two factors: the diameter of the finger on which the ring will be worn, and the knuckle which the ring must slip over comfortably.

Rolo Chain:

A chain style featuring uniform, round links. Similar to a cable chain, but designed to lay flatter.

Roman numerals:

Roman numerals are a numeral system developed originating in ancient Rome. Roman numerals are commonly used in clock faces and watch dials.

Rope Chain:

A chain comprised of a series of small, oval-shaped precious metal links that are designed to resemble a woven rope.

Rose Gold:

Rose gold gets its color from a larger proportion of copper in the metal alloy. This gives the gold a beautiful pink color.

Round Diamond:

The cut arrangement and proportions of the round diamond are based on the 57-facet design established in 1919 by diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky. Today, round diamond cut is graded based on proportions and diamond quality standards.

Shank:

The part of the ring that encircles the finger. Strictly speaking, the shank of the ring does not include the head.

Spring Ring Clasp:

The spring ring is opened when the arm of the clasp is pulled backwards. The pressure of a tiny spring keeps the arm closed.

Strap:

A strap is an elongated flap of fabric, leather or rubber used to fasten a watch around a wrist.

Subdial:

A dial within a the dial of the watch or on the main dial of a watch. See Dial.

Table:

The largest facet of a gemstone, located on the top of the diamond, through which refracted light escapes as brilliance.

Tachometer (Tachymeter):

Refers to an instrument to measure speed by units per hour. Tachometer watches have a graduated dial which speed can be read. Commonly found in the bezels of chronograph watches.

Toggle Clasp:

A toggle clasp is where a large bar is put through a smaller ring closure on the other side.

Watch Clasp:

A clasp refers to a fastening as in a buckle, catch or hook to hold two things together. It is the part of the watch the opens or separates to allow the watch to be fitted to the wearer’s wrist. The terms clasp and buckle can easily be interchanged. A clasp tends to describe a closure for metal bracelets and necklaces. Buckle usually refers to a strap band. It is the part of the watch that either opens or separates allowing the watch to fit around the hand.

Water Resistant:

Watch case is made to prevent water from entering. A water-resistant watch case will prevent moisture from entering.

Wedding Ring:

A ring which is exchanged during the wedding ceremony. It is traditionally made of gold and has the same width all the way around. Whether or not the wedding band matches the engagement ring is a personal preference.

Wheat Link Chain:

A style of chain featuring interlocking twisted oval links. Can feature spring or lobster clasps.

White gold:

Because 18k white gold is 75% gold, and 14k white gold is 58.3% gold, jewelry made from these metals has a slight yellow color. To enhance the whiteness, almost all white gold is plated with rhodium, a shiny, white metal which is extremely hard. Depending on the amount of wear to a piece of jewelry, over time this rhodium plating may wear off, revealing the original metal color. Re-plating is a simple process that can be done to restore your jewelry's whiteness if needed.

Yellow Gold:

Gold has been used to create jewelry for centuries and is valued for its beauty, strength and malleability. Gold will never tarnish, rust, or corrode. While naturally yellow, various alloys are commonly added to gold to create white gold and rose gold. Gold is commonly measured by karat for jewelry:

• 24 karat = 100% gold Too soft for jewelry
• 22 karat = 91.7% gold Very soft, rarely used for jewelry
• 18 karat = 75.0% gold Recommended for jewelry
• 14 karat = 58.3% gold Recommended for jewelry
• 10 karat = 41.7% gold The legal minimum karatage considered real gold in the US